More, 11/5/2008

More is the latest project by Chicago pastry chef legend Gale Gand (who I’m pretty sure was training a guy behind the counter while another woman rang me up – how cool!). The shop is in Gold Coast, at the corner of State and Delaware, and it is tiny. And empty. It’s strictly a carry-out operation, with no space for tables or chairs. The cupcakes look like a modern art installation, displayed behind a hanging glass plate almost up to the ceiling. The options range from traditional to highly creative, with chocolate, red velvet, pumpkin, and…bacon?

Yes, a bacon maple cupcake. How could I not try it?

It was very, very good. The cake had a nice balance of the two flavors, including plenty of bacon bits mixed in with the batter. Its texture was more like a biscuit than a cake, which I actually enjoyed. There is no greater sin, in my world, than a dry cupcake, and I’m not sure if it’s that might be because there was actually maple syrup in the mix or just because Gale Gand is a genius. However, the cake was very, very crumbly, and I probably grossed out the old Italian man on the other end of the park bench by making a mess.

This was a rare occasion for me where the cake component outshone the frosting. It had a light maple flavor, and was little more than very smooth whipped cream. Personally, I’m partial to a butter frosting, and I would have thought butter and bacon would be the obvious choice. But then again, we are talking bacon in a cupcake, so maybe obvious isn’t the point. It was fine, but not as interesting in taste or texture as the cake.

I’d like to make a note on cupcake architecture. I’ve noticed a lot of bakeries are taking a new approach to frosting. Instead of spreading a thin, uniform, some bakers are dropping a cylindrical dollop of frosting on top of the cake. It almost looks like the cupcake is wearing a Cossack hat. In theory, I think this is a fantastic idea. For me the cake is almost always a vehicle for the sweet, sweet frosting. But in practice, I have two problems with this approach. The first is aesthetics. It just doesn’t look as appetizing to me. I think I may be a cupcake traditionalist: I want it to look like a cupcake. The second, and more serious problem, is mechanics. It’s damn near impossible to eat that style of cupcake without getting frosting all over your face.

For a final verdict, I’d say the place lives up to its name. I want more. I’ve read in reviews that they sometimes have goat cheese cupcakes and other bacon combinations, but I’d also be curious to try a more typical offering to see how the cake and frosting might change for a sweet dessert rather than a savory one. On a practical note, my cupcake was just under $4.50, which I’d say is a wee bit steep for any single baked good, but in this case I think it’s mostly justified. Also, according to Centerstage Chicago, the sweet cupcakes are a bit cheaper. It’s a good indulgence, especially if the whole selection lives up to this first taste.

Epilogue, 11/18/08 – I went back for more, a chocolate and vanilla mix. Tthe cake was just the right degree of crumbly and flavorful and sweet. The frosting was superbly fudgy and was topped with a mop of white chocolate curls. Like the bacon maple variety, it was a little messy to eat, especially if you’re like me and want to save the frosting for last. But absolutely worth the effort. It’s a good thing I’m covering all sorts of baked goods on this adventure, because I may have found my cupcake supplier for life.